What Size Crate for My Puppy? A Breed-by-Breed Sizing Chart

Buy the crate too small and your puppy can't stand up. Buy it too big and they'll designate one end as a bathroom. Here's the chart that settles it — 40+ popular breeds with recommended crate dimensions, plus the divider-panel trick that means you only ever buy one crate. (And once the right crate arrives, follow our 14-day crate training plan — sizing and training are one project.)

The golden rule: stand, turn, lie down — plus 2–4 inches

The right crate lets your dog stand up without crouching, turn around comfortably, and lie down stretched out — with 2 to 4 inches of clearance beyond that. That's it. That's the whole rule, and it applies whether you have a Chihuahua or a Great Dane.

Why the precision matters: a crate's training power comes from a dog's instinct not to soil their sleeping area. Give a puppy a crate sized for a dog twice their size and the instinct breaks — there's room for a bedroom and a bathroom. Too small is just as bad: a dog that can't stretch out won't settle, and some dogs will hold their bladder dangerously long rather than soil a cramped space.

Why puppies need a divider panel (buy for adult size, partition for now)

Here's the move that saves you buying three crates: buy the crate your puppy will need as an adult, and use the divider panel to shrink the living space now. Most wire crates include a divider or sell one cheaply as an add-on. Slide it in so the puppy's section follows the golden rule, then move it back every few weeks as they grow.

Without a divider, you'd buy a small crate at 8 weeks, a medium at 16 weeks, and a large at 6 months — roughly $150–$200 in redundant crates. With a divider, you buy once: $60–$120 for most breeds.

Breed-by-breed sizing chart

Dimensions are length × width × height in inches, for the dog's adult size — buy this size and use a divider while they're growing. Mixed breed? Match by expected adult weight, or measure (see below).

When in doubt, size up one. A slightly roomy crate is a minor inefficiency; a cramped one is a welfare problem. The divider handles the "too big for now" case automatically.

Measuring your specific dog in 60 seconds

Charts are estimates — breed lines vary. For a perfect fit, take three measurements while the dog is standing:

1. Length: tip of nose to base of tail. Add 4 inches.
2. Height: floor to top of head (ears up if they're prick-eared). Add 4 inches.
3. Width: rarely the constraint, but check the dog can turn around — most crates are plenty wide if length and height fit.

For a growing puppy, measure against the breed's expected adult numbers (ask your breeder or vet, or use the chart above) and buy that size with a divider.

Wire vs. plastic vs. soft-sided: which type for which situation

• Wire crates — the default for most owners. Great airflow, fold flat, usually include a divider, and the dog can see out (less isolation). Downsides: not escape-proof for determined chewers, and some dogs feel exposed — fix with a crate cover or blanket.
• Plastic kennels — best for travel (most are airline-approved) and for anxious dogs that prefer a darker den. Downsides: no divider option, harder to clean thoroughly, and poor visibility makes training check-ins harder.
• Soft-sided crates — lightweight and portable, great as a second crate for travel or the car once the dog is already crate-trained. Not for puppies or chewers — one determined night and there's a hole in the mesh.

Our recommendation for first-time owners: one wire crate with a divider for home. Add a soft-sided one later for travel if you need it. For the rest of the day-one shopping list — crate mats, covers, and everything else — see our new dog essentials checklist.

When to size up: signs the crate is too small

• The dog can't stand fully upright without the head touching the top
• They sleep curled in a ball because stretching out doesn't fit
• They hesitate or have to fold themselves to turn around
• Growing puppies: reassess the divider position every 2–3 weeks — if the puppy fills the section nose-to-tail, move the divider back

FAQ

Can the crate be too big?

Yes — for a puppy in training. Excess space breaks the don't-soil-the-den instinct, and puppies will use the far corner as a bathroom. The fix isn't a smaller crate; it's a divider panel in a correctly-sized adult crate. For an already house-trained adult dog, a roomy crate is perfectly fine. Getting the size right is also one of the biggest levers in potty training — see our hour-by-hour potty training schedule.

One crate or two (bedroom + living room)?

Start with one. Hauling one wire crate between rooms for two weeks is mildly annoying; buying two crates before you know your dog's habits is expensive. The exception: a two-story house where carrying a 42-inch crate up and down stairs daily will make you hate crate training. In that case, a second basic crate upstairs is worth it.